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Tea time in Guizhou

2010-11-08

Tea time in Guizhou

China hardly suffers for lack of tourist destinations - some worth the journey, crowds and overall mafan, some not. Often the most rewarding spots are far removed, in both mood and geography, from the smoldering people-bombs of the Forbidden City or Great Wall. For the rare few who can spot the south-central province of Guizhou on a map, they've discovered quite the hidden treasure, a wealth of minority traditions, verdant scenery and the odd sightseeing gem that keeps the remote outpost resolutely under-the-radar and off-the-beaten-path, all to the benefit of those who can make it there before it too becomes a casualty of China's rapid modernization.

Checking out some of the local flavor as part of my attendance at the sixth annual International Green Tea Expo held during the last few days of October, I got the sense that Guizhou is currently trying to position itself as a major tea powerhouse along the lines of Yunnan, a far more well-trod province along its western border. Already famous fo Moutai, a brand of baijiu known for its "soy-sauce" flavor, Guizhou is making a play to become the beverage capital of China - and if the Tea Expo is any indication, they won't have much trouble.

Though it wasn't exclusively focused on green or Guizhou-grown tea, the latter certainly stole the show. Such specialty varieties as "naturally sweetened" Tree of Life-brand tea and chestnut-scented "office" tea - allegedly palliative for white-collar stress and maladies - will add to the laundry list of rumored health benefits to the drink, which include basically everything this side of X-ray vision. For those looking to spice up their tea consumption, as well as get the best of Guizhou in a single bottle, try the XX-brand green tea baijiu - but be warned: At 45 percent alcohol per bottle, it's a hangover from hell waiting to happen.

You don't need an expo to find these magic potions, however. Take a trip out to the semi-rural enclave of Meitan, an agricultural community at the receiving end of a recent government subsidy for sustainable tea harvesting. The newly paved roads winding through the serene tea fields ("sea of tea" in the literal translation from Chinese) have turned this once-treacherous route into a pleasant day trip. Checking out one of the rest-stops along the way might get you a free sample or two of "Sparrow's Tongue Tea," so-named for its tiny, delicate leaves. The freshly renovated farmers' villas dotting the road retain their traditional styles (including the deliciously kitschy teapot and teacup window dressing) while simultaneously making a clear case that investing in farmers' quality of life is not only sound social policy, but a good tourism booster as well.

For pure tourist spectacle, however, nothing beats the self-proclaimed "World's Largest Teapot" on the summit of the hilly town's highest peak, just opened to coincide with the Expo. Not literally a tea-serving vessel, the 73.8 meter-tall, clay-red structure currently houses a museum and several richly appointed rooms to while away the hours over cup after bubbling cup. If you're interested in a longer stay and a smashing sunrise view of the surrounding environs (as well as a great party-conversation-starter), you can settle into one of the teapot's hotel rooms, which range from 1680 yuan ($251.50) per night for a deluxe suite to 400 yuan for a business express room (or just 88 yuan per hour if all you need is a quick nap).

Returning to the (relatively) big-city environs of neighboring Zunyi, a town with an outsized reputation as the host of one of the most important events in the history of the Chinese Communist Party, you won't find nearly as much tea-worship, but definitely don't miss the Zunyi Conference Memorial Museum. It was here at a recently-restored lodge and Catholic church built by French missionaries that Mao Zedong was appointed leader of the Communist Party during the Long March in 1935 - a watershed moment that Zunyi residents observe with the requisite pomp and circumstance, including a 35-meter-tall monument in the center of town. Though the museum itself is a bit stodgy, showcasing such ho-hum items as the shoes worn by Long March soldiers (and be warned that all displays are in Chinese), it is an undeniable thrill to explore the site of such a pivotal episode in Chinese history.

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