During a downpour in 2006, Great Wall climber Jeremy Goldkorn escaped onto the Chen family farm to seek shelter and food. Four years later, I found myself dodging the rain and intentionally visiting the same farm in search of an authentic experience of rural China.
Chen Yongjiang and his wife live in Chenjiapu, a village located in a valley of Hebei Province, where the Great Wall of China can be seen in clear view from the Chen family's driveway. Goldkorn inspired the Chens to open Great Wall Fresh – a restaurant, guest house and guided tour service.
Great Wall Fresh is most popular among foreigners, though relatively few know about the attraction, making for a peaceful and intimate experience with the centuries-old landmark. Pang Li from China.org.cn interpreted an interview over tea between Mr. Chen, Mrs. Chen, and me.
"They want to see the authentic, primitive Wall," Mr. Chen said. "They want to feel the tranquility of this place. They want to experience how rural families live and eat."
Before opening Great Wall Fresh, the Chens grew and sold vegetables. After their two sons left to attend universities, the job became too physically demanding.
"In this business, we can take a rest when our guests are busy," said Mrs. Chen, who does most of the cooking.
As a guest of Great Wall Fresh, I slept in a comfortable guest house, ate delicious meals prepared by the Chens, and hiked one of three guided tours of wild and scenic parts of the Great Wall. The tours range in difficulty from easy to very demanding.
Mr. Chen led Pang Li and me on the hike called "Hunchback curve," a strenuous trek that included nearly vertical climbs up and down the Great Wall, overgrown with shrubbery and powdered in misty clouds.
After working up an appetite, I was delighted to find out that Goldkorn, who is from South Africa and speaks English and Chinese, helped the Chens develop a bilingual menu containing organically grown fruit and vegetables and signature Chen family dishes.
One of my favorite dishes was dun cai, a warm dish with potatoes, pork and green beans. It is also the most popular item on the menu, said Mrs. Chen. Other items of esteem include roasted almonds, noodles with meat sauce, fried chili peppers and hand-picked cucumbers.
Mrs. Chen said she takes pride in her cooking but would like to learn English.
"If I learn to communicate with others, I can show my warm welcome to the guests," she said.
Mr. Chen has goals for the future as well.
"I want to expand and improve my business without changing the atmosphere of the restaurant and guest house," he said. "I want to make friends from all over the world."
Two other families in Chenjiapu started similar businesses, but Chen's is the only one that attracts foreigners because of their English website, Mr. Chen said.
"I don't feel any competition," he said. "They have their ways, and I have mine!"
Mr. and Mrs. Chen said the whole village works like a family to help each other.
"We are a family at heart," Mrs. Chen said. "It is not all about money. It is about people treating each other the way they should be treated."
Mr. Chen said the best time to visit Chenjiapu is during the May Day holiday, when peach blossoms are in flower.
I hope to eventually return to Great Wall Fresh during this holiday with family and friends to share the surely unforgettable experience.